Ingredients you should (and shouldn't) use in-between aesthetic appointments

Whether you’ve been in-clinic for skin boosters, chemical peels or laser, the skincare you use before, after and in-between appointments can make all the difference. In fact, choosing the right topical products has three core benefits, according to Cosmetic Doctor, Dr Emmaline Ashley. “It prepares the skin so it heals well, supports the barrier while it recovers, and protects the result afterwards,” she notes. 

Aesthetic treatments and good skincare are ultimately designed to complement each other. If you’re heavily investing in your skin, it’s worth prioritising both for best results. “An injectable, laser or energy-based treatment can create changes at a depth that topical skincare simply cannot reach, but skincare can help keep the skin healthy, hydrated and protected between appointments,” explains Aesthetic Doctor, Dr Ahmed El Muntasar. 

Where it makes the biggest difference, he says, is “maintaining a healthy skin barrier, controlling inflammation and pigmentation, and protecting the skin from UV damage.”

The latter, in fact, is perhaps the most important factor. Both Dr Ashley and Dr El Muntasar agree that if patients aren’t going to prioritise daily SPF wear, having injectables and other in-clinic procedures that boost collagen levels and improve skin longevity is pointless just for “sun exposure to break it down again” (Ashley). 

It is, of course, important to manage expectations, however. Topical skincare simply can’t do what most aesthetic procedures can. “Ultimately, the in clinic treatment creates the intervention; skincare helps create the environment in which we can protect and maintain those results,” confirms El Muntasar. 

Here’s what to reach for between each specific procedure. 

Polynucleotides

Use: Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, peptides and SPF

Avoid: Retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, scrubs 

Soon after a round of polynucleotides, as well as shortly before, it’s best to avoid anything harsh like exfoliating acids and physical scrubs, as well as retinoids. “Polynucleotides are already being used to improve skin quality—you don’t need to attack the skin from every direction at once,” says El Muntasar.

Instead, opt for supportive ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, peptides and of course, SPF. These will aid in skin’s overall wellbeing as the polynucleotides take action. “Once the skin has completely settled after treatment, vitamin C in the morning and a retinoid at night can complement an overall skin-quality programme, provided the patient already tolerates them,” adds El Muntasar. 

Try: HydroPeptide Daily Drench, £67

Dermal filler

Use: Vitamin C, peptides, SPF

Avoid: Irritating actives 

“Filler is slightly different because skincare won’t really alter the structural result of the filler itself. If I’ve replaced volume in the cheek or treated a fold, no topical ingredient is going to meaningfully enhance that volumising effect,” highlights El Muntasar.

That said, focusing on good, hydrating ingredients as well as vitamin C, peptides and of course, SPF, can help to maintain skin health overall. Retinoids are great too, just not shortly before or after treatments. “I generally recommend keeping the routine simple and avoiding irritating actives until any swelling, tenderness or bruising has settled,” concludes the Doctor. 

Try: Subderma Post-HA Fillers Booster Serum

Botulinum toxin

Use: Retinoids, antioxidants (both when skin is healed) and SPF

Avoid: Anything you’re hoping to ‘replicate’ the effects of botulinum toxin

While plenty has been said on social media about topical ingredients that can ‘replicate’ the effects of botulinum toxin (such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8/Argireline), El Muntasar warns that you should manage expectations: “There isn’t really a skincare ingredient that will make botulinum toxin work more effectively or make the muscle-relaxing effect significantly stronger.”

Instead, he recommends addressing things “that botulinum toxin doesn’t,” in order to take a well-rounded approach that covers all bases. “Botulinum toxin can soften dynamic lines caused by muscle movement, while retinoids, antioxidants and SPF can address aspects of skin ageing such as photo damage, texture and fine lines. It’s the combination that often creates the best overall result, rather than expecting one treatment to do everything,” he says. 

Try: HydroPeptide LumaPro-C Serum, £127

Skin boosters

Use: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide, peptides and SPF

Avoid: Aggressive exfoliation 

“With skin boosters, hydration and skin quality are usually the goal, so I like the home routine to support that,” says El Muntasar. With that in mind, he recommends hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide and peptides, alongside daily SPF usage. Plus, once skin has settled, retinoids and vitamin C “can form part of the longer-term routine.”

In terms of what to avoid, he adds: “Again, immediately after injections I wouldn’t pile on acids, retinoids or aggressive exfoliation. More isn’t necessarily better.”

Try: Colorescience All Calm Multi-Correction Serum, £75

Laser

Use: Sun protection and simple ingredients 

Avoid: Retinoids, acids, vitamin C, fragrance and scrubs (until skin is fully healed)

“Laser is one area where skincare matters a lot,” says Dr Ashley. “Beforehand, strict sun protection is essential, as tanned skin [from recent sun exposure] raises the risk of burns and pigmentation, and we usually ask patients to pause retinoids and exfoliating acids for several days.”

Afterwards, she says, “think bland.” We’re talking a super gentle, pared-down cleanser, fragrance-free hydrating, soothing emollient, and SPF. Wait until the skin has fully recovered to reach for your retinoids, acids, scrubs and vitamin C, as well as any products that contain fragrance, mostly as “a compromised barrier will react to things it normally tolerates.”

Try: IMAGE Skincare BIOME+ Cleansing Comfort Balm, £48

Microneedling

Use: Hyaluronic acid and other plain hydrators 

Avoid: Any ingredients that aren’t super gentle and simple (initially) 

Microneedling is a unique treatment as it causes tiny micro-tears in the skin. These tears can stay open for hours, meaning it’s important to avoid anything other than super gentle skincare in the first couple of days. 

Dr Ashley says that there are “published reports of persistent inflammatory reactions when cosmetic serums were applied during needling,” so using a simple hydrator like hyaluronic acid serum and a basic, light moisturiser are best.

Avoid actives for several days, until redness has fully settled. “The exception to this will be certain in-clinic or take home treatments, for example plant-based exosomes, where we are taking advantage of the extra absorption those microchannels give us,” adds Ashley.

 Try: IDENELIntensive Moisture Locking Cream, £60

Radio frequency

Use: Antioxidants, peptides, moisturising ingredients, daily SPF

Avoid: Harsh active ingredients 

While El Muntasar is quick to remind us that, “radio frequency treatments are designed to create controlled heating within the tissue to stimulate remodelling, so skincare can’t reproduce that effect,” certain skincare choices can absolutely support the skin that’s being treated. 

Focus on antioxidants, peptides, moisturising ingredients and SPF. “I’d treat those first few days similarly to microneedling: gentle cleansing, hydration, barrier repair and sun protection, then gradually reintroduce active ingredients [like retinol] as the skin recovers.”

Try: Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Sport Stick SPF 50, £40

Chemical peels

Use: Barrier repair ingredients and SPF

Avoid: Exfoliating acids and retinoids 

Chemical peels can lead to serious skin sensitivity in the first few days following treatment. 

“What somebody uses before and after a peel can significantly affect tolerability and the risk of irritation or pigmentation,” notes El Muntasar. “I would normally pause other exfoliating acids and retinoids around the procedure, and prioritise barrier repair and SPF afterwards.”

Try: Colorescience Total Protection No-Show™ Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50, £36