The antioxidant skincare update

It’s often only when the sun comes out that we start to pay attention to the uniquely protective qualities of antioxidants. Ideally though, they are a year-round skincare staple, playing a crucial, defensive role, regardless of whether the sun is shining and pollution is skyrocketing or not.

By neutralising skin-ageing free radicals and helping to strengthen the skin’s protective natural barrier, antioxidants work hard to keep our complexions healthy and resilient. 

But not all antioxidants are created equal. They often have differing secondary benefits, play better (or worse) with particular ingredients, or have specific shelf life and stability. Some, such as vitamin C, are skincare staples with good reason; others, such as resveratrol, are part of the new, next-gen wave of antioxidants. 

We’ve compiled an A-Z of the 10 you should look for in your skincare, along with a quick antioxidant refresher. 

What do antioxidants bring to skincare?

“Antioxidants are one of the best ways we have of protecting skin from everyday damage,” explains Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and Founder of The Aesthetics Doctor. 

“Throughout the day, skin is exposed to UV radiation, pollution and other environmental stressors that generate unstable molecules called free radicals. These molecules damage collagen, elastin and skin cells over time, accelerating pigmentation, fine lines and loss of firmness. 

“Antioxidants neutralise these free radicals before they can cause as much damage. They’re not a replacement for sunscreen, but they work incredibly well alongside SPF to provide an extra layer of protection and help maintain healthier, more resilient skin.”

Is one antioxidant better than another?

While in general, all antioxidants work similarly, each boasts its own extra function. “There isn’t a single ‘best’ antioxidant,” says Dr Ahmed. “It depends on what you’re trying to achieve. They all share the same goal of reducing oxidative stress, but each has its own strengths. 

“For example, vitamin E is particularly good at protecting the skin barrier and reducing moisture loss; niacinamide helps reduce inflammation, regulate oil production and strengthen the skin barrier; and ferulic acid stabilises other antioxidants, particularly vitamin C, making them work more effectively.”

When and how should you use an antioxidant?

You’ll find antioxidants in everything from serums to sunscreen, but to be effective, they need to absorb into the skin. So which product they appear in is vital. 

“The formulation is often as important as the ingredient,” advises Dr Ahmed. “Antioxidants generally need time on the skin to work, so serums tend to be most effective because they deliver higher concentrations directly to the skin. 

“Moisturisers can also be very effective, particularly if they’re designed to support the skin barrier while delivering antioxidants. Cleanser-based antioxidants are less impactful simply because they’re rinsed off. They can offer some benefit, but if you’re specifically investing in antioxidants to prevent premature ageing or pigmentation, a leave-on product is almost always the better choice.”

How to choose the best antioxidant

“Start by identifying your main skin concern, rather than chasing whatever ingredient is trending on social media,” advises Dr Ahmed.  “If pigmentation or dullness is your issue, vitamin C is usually my recommendation. 

“If your skin is sensitive or prone to redness, niacinamide or green tea extracts tend to be better tolerated. For those looking to target multiple signs of ageing, ingredients such as resveratrol can be valuable additions. 

“The most important thing is consistency. A well-formulated antioxidant used every morning alongside a broad-spectrum SPF, will usually deliver better long-term results than constantly switching between products in search of the next miracle ingredient.”

Your antioxidant A-Z

Acetyl Zingerone

Best for: Anti-ageing and soothing sensitivity

Reassuringly stable in sunlight, acetyl zingerone is low risk when it comes to irritation, and pairs brilliantly with vitamin C to protect skin from environmental stressors — it complements retinol and exfoliating acids too. As well as helping to prevent wrinkles from deepening and collagen degrading, this antioxidant is also a favourite for calming inflammation. 

Find it in: Medik8 C-Tetra Advanced serum

Astaxanthin

Best for: Hydration

Known as a powerhouse antioxidant, astaxanthin is photostable and both protects and repairs, making it beneficial day and night. A red-orange carotenoid antioxidant derived from microalgae (that gives salmon and flamingos their pink colour), astaxanthin is up to 6,000 times stronger than vitamin C. As well as protecting collagen and preventing hyperpigmentation, it helps strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, stopping the trans epidermal water loss that can leave skin parched.

Find it in: Weleda Slow Aging Astaxanthin Booster Serum Drops

Ferulic acid

Best for: Boosting the potency of other antioxidants

While ferulic acid works in a similar way to other antioxidants when it comes to firmness, fine lines and pigmentation, its real power is how it works synergistically with those counterparts. Ferulic acid helps to stabilise the more volatile antioxidants – particularly vitamin C – helping them to work harder for longer. 

Find it in: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Acid serum

Glutathione

Best for: Brightening and evening out skin tone

Because glutathione tackles the root causes of uneven tone and dullness, it works wonderfully day and night, as well as making it popular in Korean formulas. By inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, glutathione helps fade hyperpigmentation and makes dull complexions look more luminous while fighting free radicals. It also works gently, making it ideal if you have sensitive skin.

Find it in: Medicube AGE-R Glutathione Glow Capsule Cream

Green Tea

Best for: Sensitive, rosacea and acne-prone complexions

Green tea is rich in catechins, a type of a polyphenol that’s a hard-working, multitasking antioxidant. As well as defending against environmental aggressors, green tea is exceptionally calming and soothing, easing irritation and inflammation. It’s also helpful for reducing sebum production in oily skins and helps support vitamin C function.

Find it in: HydroPeptide Solar Defence Non-Tinted SPF50

Niacinamide

Best for: Everyone

Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide is another multitasker that benefits all skin types and addresses a wealth of concerns. Importantly, it pairs well with other antioxidants and active ingredients including retinol, as niacinamide helps to prevent water loss to counteract its drying effects. From brightening dullness and reducing excess oil to helping minimise the look of enlarged pores and easing redness, niacinamide is a skincare hero.

Find it in: Delo Rx The Brightener

Resveratrol

Best for: Easing dryness during peri-menopause and menopause

Resveratrol is believed to help extend the lifespan of the skin’s supportive fibroblasts, while research suggests it can also protect the skin’s surface. Working well with most other antioxidants – especially vitamins C and E – resveratrol has anti-inflammatory and anti-pigmentation properties and can help counteract dryness and crepiness as skin loses oestrogen.

Find it in: Dr David Jack Skin Cushion Pro-Lipid Recovery Cream 

Silymarin

Best for: Oily and acne-prone complexions

By targeting and neutralising the free radicals that aggravate acne and encourage blemishes to form, as well as preventing sebum from oxidising, causing blocked pores, silymarin is ideal for those suffering breakouts. An extract of milk thistle, it also reduces redness, pigmentation and post-acne marks. 

Find it in: SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF Serum For Blemish Prone Skin 

Vitamin C

Best for: Tackling pigmentation, dullness and lack of firmness

The best-known antioxidant and one you’re most likely to find as a standalone serum, vitamin C - or L-ascorbic acid – is often teamed with vitamin E and ferulic acid to boost its potency. Although it’s one of the most unstable antioxidants and can irritate dry or sensitive complexions, vitamin C is the gold standard in helping skin produce collagen while fighting lines, wrinkles, sagging and the overproduction of melanin that causes dark patches.

Find it in: Image Skincare VITAL C Hydrating Antioxidant A C E Serum

Vitamin E

Best for: Strengthening the skin barrier and plumping dehydration lines

Renowned for its ability to hydrate the most dry and flaky skins, vitamin E is fat-soluble so can work deep within the skin’s natural barrier, and the lipids in the outer layers to hold on to moisture. Also called tocopherol, when teamed with vitamin C and sunscreen it can double protection against sunburn and sun damage.

Find it in: ChitoCare Anti-Ageing Eye Cream