5 trending skincare ingredients to have on your radar

What makes a skincare ingredient blow up while other workhorses go unrecognised, is a study in great marketing. The following five are currently being raved about in beauty circles for all the right reasons…

GHK-Cu

Copper peptide GHK-Cu is a naturally occurring tripeptide — three amino acids bound to a copper ion —which is found in human plasma, saliva and urine. Discovered in 1973, it has been studied for decades in wound healing and skin biology, and is now resurging as a mainstream skincare ingredient thanks to the longevity community, many of whom are injecting the stuff believing it to boost everything from tissue repair and collagen, to hair growth.

Where we know it does work, with studies to back up claims, is as a topical skincare ingredient. It stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, supports tissue repair and reduces inflammation, and functions as a powerful antioxidant.

You should experience an improvement in skin firmness, a reduction of fine lines, a stronger skin barrier and a reduction in wrinkle depth. What’s more, it’s suitable for all skin types and tones, and makes for an effective youth-boosting active for those whose skin is on the sensitive side and can’t tolerate powerful retinoids. Note that you won’t reap any rewards from this peptide if you combine it directly with vitamin C or exfoliating acids, as these can destabilise the copper ion, so use them at different times of day.

Find it: HydroPeptide LumiFirm Radiant Tightening Lotion 

Urolithin A

Think of this postbiotic as your local dustbin man. Produced when the gut metabolises polyphenols – micronutrients found in plant-based foods like pomegranates, walnuts and berries – urolithin activates mitophagy, the cellular process by which the body clears out damaged mitochondria (the powerhouse of our cells) and replaces them with healthy ones.

This is incredibly beneficial as we age, as our natural mitophagy process becomes less efficient and damaged mitochondria accumulate, which contributes to reduced cellular energy, slower repair and visible ageing. By stimulating this clean-up process, urolithin A helps cells function more efficiently.

Studies have shown that when it comes to its use in skincare, it reduces wrinkle depth, improves collagen production and boosts skin elasticity and hydration. Rather than directly targeting one specific process, i.e. collagen production or melanin regulation, it represents a new category of skincare that targets the energy supply that enables skin cells to do their own repairing. It’s best for anyone concerned with premature ageing, dullness or loss of firmness, particularly those in their 30s and beyond. It pairs well with peptides and antioxidants, and is generally well tolerated alongside most actives.

Find it: Lancôme Absolue Longevity MD Reset The Cream

Bemotrizinol

Due to its very recent FDA approval, beauty buffs stateside have been raving about bemotrizinol (also known as Tinosorb S). It’s a chemical UV filter that us here in Blighty have been using in sunscreens for over two decades, but despite that, it’s fair to say most people have no idea what filters their sunscreen contains, and whether their SPF uses chemical or mineral filters.

But it’s worth knowing the difference between the two, and what makes this active so special. Mineral sunscreens sit on top of the skin like a shield to reflect and absorb UV rays, and are well tolerated by acne-prone, sensitive or reactive skin. Chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin, soak up UV rays, and convert them into a small amount of heat that is safely released.

What sets bemotrizinol apart is its photostability – it doesn’t degrade in sunlight the way many chemical filters do, meaning protection remains consistent throughout the day. It is also genuinely broad-spectrum, absorbing both UVA and UVB rays in a single filter, whereas most chemical alternatives require a combination of filters to achieve the same coverage.

It has low skin absorption, sits comfortably on the skin and is even less likely to cause irritation than other chemical filters, making it a great option for anyone looking for a lightweight chemical SPF with excellent broad-spectrum coverage.

Find it: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF50+

Melatonin

You probably know that melatonin is the sleep hormone our bodies produce as the sun goes down, and that it helps the body calm down at the end of the day, lowering your core temperature and gently promoting drowsiness so you can fall asleep.

What you might not know is that it’s one of the most potent antioxidants in the human body, and that applying it topically to skin produces entirely different benefits to taking it as a supplement. It won’t help you sleep, but it will help your skin defend itself.

Topical melatonin neutralises free radicals, helps protect against UV-induced oxidative damage and supports the skin’s natural barrier repair process (which is most active during sleep). Research shows it can also contribute to a brighter, more even skin tone by reducing oxidative stress-induced pigmentation triggered by environmental aggressors like pollution and UV.

It’s an ideal active to have in your arsenal for anyone (of all skin types and tones) who’s exposed to environmental stressors – it can also be used alongside vitamin C, retinoids and barrier-supporting ceramides.

Find it: Zelens Melatonin B12 Advanced Repair Serum

Glycogen

Glycogen is the body’s primary carbohydrate storage molecule, found in the liver, muscles and skin. In the skin, it acts as an energy reserve for cells, fuelling the processes of renewal, repair and barrier maintenance.

Annoyingly, like with most things that keep us looking youthful, levels naturally decline with age, which contributes to slower cell turnover, reduced collagen production and compromised hydration.

In skincare, topically applied glycogen (or its plant-derived equivalent, phytoglycogen) functions as a cellular fuel source, improving hydration, stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen, and supporting overall skin vitality.

It’s emerging as a must-have active, as skin longevity over anti-ageing cements itself into the beauty lexicon. Clinical studies have shown visible improvements within six weeks of use, and that its most beneficial for mature or dull skin, though everyone can use it to keep their cells energised.

Find it: Dermalogica Phyto Nature Oxygen Cream