The 8 hormones that affect your skin - and why

Hormones: we hear about them all the time, increasingly in relation to our skin. This is because, as Aesthetic Doctor Dr David Jack points out, they “have an enormous influence on the skin, because the skin is a hormonally responsive organ.”

He continues: “It contains receptors for many of the body’s key hormones, including oestrogen, cortisol, androgens and thyroid hormones, which means that internal changes can show up very quickly and visibly on the face and body.”

As women, we can often notice skin changes during hormonal fluctuations that occur around the menstrual cycle, pregnancy and menopause. But where to start when it comes to understanding which are most important to know about, and how they impact the skin?

While this guide explores eight of the most relevant, it’s important to note that hormones affect each individual uniquely and that they are not the only factor at play: genetics, medical conditions and lifestyle (amongst other things) all impact how the skin looks and feels too.

Testosterone (Androgens)

What is it? Testosterone is the most well-known androgen (androgens are otherwise known as male sex hormones). It is produced in the ovaries and adrenal glands and, “although present at much higher levels in men, is important in all sexes,” notes Dr. Alicia Gonzalez-Fernandez, Aesthetic Doctor and Family Medicine Resident. Levels can fluctuate depending on age, health and factors such as sleep, exercise and stress levels.

How it affects skin: Like with most hormones, testosterone is important for the skin and has benefits, but in excess, it can cause issues. Crucially, androgens like testosterone can “help to maintain skin thickness, wound healing and barrier function,” says Gonzalez-Fernandez. However, “higher androgen activity can increase oil production, clogged pores and inflammatory acne,” notes Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Sidra Khan. It’s generally very closely linked to oil production levels in the skin.

Oestrogen

What is it? Oestrogen is the primary group of female sex hormones which are mainly produced in the ovaries. It “plays a key role in reproductive health, the menstrual cycle and menopause, but also has important effects on the skin, hair, bones and cardiovascular system,” explains Gonzalez-Fernandez. Your levels can change depending on your stage of life – puberty, pregnancy and menopause (and where you are in your cycle) are all big contributors to these fluctuations.

How it affects skin: “Oestrogen supports collagen production, skin thickness, hydration, elasticity, barrier function and wound healing,” says Jack. In short, it’s essential to hydrated, healthy skin. As we age, however, our oestrogen levels naturally decline, meaning skin can become drier, slower to repair and more sensitive.

Progesterone

What is it? A hormone that’s mainly produced by the ovaries following ovulation, progesterone balances the effects of oestrogen and regulates the menstrual cycle, as well as pregnancy.

How it affects skin: Gonzalez-Fernandez explains that “progesterone may have calming, anti-inflammatory effects in some tissues – and healthy hormonal balance between progesterone and oestrogen is important for overall skin health.” However, it can also increase oil production (i.e. acne can become more common) and cause puffiness, particularly during the luteal phase. The effects are usually dependent on where you are in your cycle, and can really vary from individual to individual.

Thyroid hormones

What are they? These are produced in the thyroid gland, and are essential for controlling metabolism as well as things like body temperature, energy levels and weight.

How they affect skin: They can also have a big impact on skin. “I very regularly check thyroid levels in my dermatology clinic. Both underactive and overactive thyroid disease can affect the skin,” says Dr Khan. Low thyroid levels, says Jack, can be associated with skin that’s dry or feels coarse. An overactive thyroid however can lead to warmer, sweatier skin and thus, sometimes flushing.

Oxytocin

What is it? You may know oxytocin as the ‘love hormone.’ This is because it’s tied to “bonding, trust, childbirth and breastfeeding,” notes Gonzalez-Fernandez. It’s a hormone that’s made in the brain and then released by the pituitary gland, and levels tend to rise during touch, intimacy and positive social interactions.

How it affects skin: There isn’t as much evidence that oxytocin impacts the skin as directly as many other hormones mentioned, but it’s certainly thought to have an indirect tie to skin health and happiness, mostly via stress levels. Producing oxytocin can help counter high stress, and “this matters because stress is known to worsen conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and rosacea,” says Gonzalez-Fernandez. Barrier function is also thought to be supported.

Cortisol

What is it? Cortisol is often thought of as the dreaded ‘stress hormone,’ but we do need it in order to “wake up in the morning, regulate blood sugar, respond to illness or injury and cope with acute stress,” says Jack. Produced by the adrenal glands, the issues only really start when levels are persistently raised, which can lead to emotional strain, illness and poor sleep.

How it affects skin: Elevated levels of cortisol are as much a silent killer for the skin as they are for the internal organs. They can increase inflammation, worsen acne, harm the skin barrier, slow healing and accelerate collagen breakdown. This can exacerbate existing skin conditions and speed up ageing. Kept at healthy levels, however, cortisol can actually aid in healing and reducing inflammation.

Melatonin

What is it? The ‘sleep hormone,’ melatonin is associated with the body’s natural circadian rhythm. It’s produced in the brain's pineal gland, and signals to your body that it’s bedtime.

How it affects skin: As well as having antioxidant properties, melatonin is also essential to skin because it allows it to rest, repair and heal properly (because it’s what makes us sleep, when this all takes place!). “Poor sleep can worsen inflammation, impair barrier recovery and make the skin look duller and more fragile,” explains Jack.

Insulin

What is it? Insulin is released when we eat, and helps move glucose from the blood to the cells. It is therefore linked to metabolism and blood sugar regulation.;

How it affects skin: Optimum insulin levels are important for overall health – but you may be surprised to hear they’re also crucial for skin, too. “When insulin levels are repeatedly high, or when someone has insulin resistance, it can influence sebum production, inflammation (via glucose excess and glycosylation) and follicular plugging,” says Jack. “This is one reason acne can be associated with PMOS (formerly PCOS) and, in some people, with high glycaemic diets.”