The Layered Guide to picking the right sunscreen

When it comes to anti-ageing and warding off skin cancer, sun protection is non-negotiable, but knowing which sunscreen to reach for can be confusing. Walk into any pharmacy or beauty hall and you’ll find shelves of options: mineral, chemical, tinted, matte, fluid, stick, SPF 15 to SPF 100.

The choice is overwhelming, and the consequences of picking the wrong one for you aren’t minor. A formula that breaks you out or feels too heavy, too shiny or pills under makeup is one you’re unlikely to use consistently. And inconsistent SPF use is almost as bad as none at all. The right sunscreen is simply the one you’ll actually apply every morning, and reapply throughout the day to keep your skin protected.

Here’s everything you need to know about selecting the right one for you.

Sunscreen explained

Sunscreen protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation, specifically UVA rays, which penetrate deep into the skin and are the primary driver of premature ageing, and UVB rays, which are responsible for burning. Some formulas also protect against visible light (HEV, or blue light) and infrared radiation, both of which contribute to pigmentation and oxidative stress. For full coverage you want a broad-spectrum formula, making the UVA star rating as important as the SPF number on the label.

Mineral vs chemical sunscreen

There are two types of sunscreens, and the difference between the two affects texture, suitability and how the skin responds:

Mineral sunscreen

Best for: sensitive, rosacea-prone, acne-prone skin, darker skin tones, children, post-procedure skin

Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. They work by sitting on the surface of the skin and physically reflecting UV rays rather than absorbing them. Because they don’t penetrate the skin, reactive or compromised skin tends to tolerate them better. Zinc oxide has anti-inflammatory properties too, making it genuinely useful for anyone with inflammatory conditions like rosacea and acne. Historically, the white cast this kind of SPF left on the skin has been the main complaint, and prevented those with melanin rich skin from reaching for mineral sunscreen—modern formulations have largely addressed this. For deeper skin tones, tinted mineral SPFs can be even more helpful, as the iron oxides that provide the tint correct the cast and protect against visible light, which is an independent driver of hyperpigmentation.

Chemical sunscreen

Best for: normal, oily, combination skin; those who prefer lightweight textures

Chemical sunscreens use organic filters that absorb UV radiation and convert it to heat, which is then released from the skin. Textures tend to be lighter and more skin-like, with no white cast, which makes them popular for everyday wear. However, they’re not the first recommendation for very sensitive or reactive skin, where the chemical process can sometimes cause irritation. Depending on which one you buy, you may find that some degrade faster than others, meaning you have to reapply earlier than the recommended 120 minutes. 

Sunscreen textures and formulations

Fluid or lotion

Best for: normal, dry, combination skin

A sensible starting point if you’re not sure where to begin, as this texture is the most versatile. It’s lightweight, spreads easily and works well under make-up.

Try: ZO Skin Health Sheer Fluid Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 50

Matte or oil-control

Best for: oily, acne-prone, combination skin

If you find that sunscreen often leaves your skin shiny or makes you break out, opting for an SPF that is formulated with oil-absorbing ingredients to keep shine at bay and stop the accumulation of oil that can trigger acne, is the right way to go.

Try: ZO Skin Health Daily Sheer Broad-Spectrum SPF 50

Tinted SPF

Best for: all skin tones, particularly darker skin tones prone to hyperpigmentation

Tinted SPFs even out the complexion while protecting it, thanks to the iron oxides that create the tint. They also protect against visible light and HEV, which drives hyperpigmentation particularly in deeper skin tones. For anyone dealing with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, choosing a tinted formula will help even out the appearance of an uneven skin tone. However, not all brands offer a range of shades, and these formulas can also leave a cast, so choose wisely and try to test on your skin before you buy.

Try: Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50

Powder SPF

Best for: reapplication over make-up, oily skin, on-the-go protection

Not a replacement for your morning application, but perfect for reapplying throughout the day without disturbing your make-up, or for oily skin that wishes to remain as shine free as possible while still protecting against UV rays. 

Try: Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50

Stick

Best for: targeted areas, lips, reapplication on the go

Compact and easy to use for precise application on areas like the nose, lips, ears and around the eyes. Uber practical for reapplication without needing to carry a full bottle of sunscreen, but be sure to choose one that glides rather than drags on the skin.

Try: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Suncare Stick SPF 50+

How to pick the right SPF factor

SPF measures protection against UVB rays only, and the numbers tell you the proportion blocked. SPF 30 blocks around 97 per cent, SPF 50 around 98 per cent and SPF 100 around 99 per cent. The gap sounds small, but the accumulation of sun exposure adds up.

For the face, SPF 50 is the standard recommendation. The face is almost continuously exposed and it’s where sun damage tends to appear first—think pigmentation, fine lines, uneven tone and loss of firmness. SPF 30 offers adequate protection for the body under everyday conditions, while 50 or 100 are best if you find yourself sitting or walking for long periods in the sun.

There are other situations where higher protection and rigorous reapplication become essential rather than just advisable: if you’re using retinoids or AHAs that increase photosensitivity, if you’ve recently had a laser, peel or energy device treatment, if you’re prone to melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or if you have a deeper skin tone where hyperpigmentation is more likely and harder to shift. In all of these cases, a minimum of SPF 50 on the face (and body) with reapplication every two hours during outdoor exposure are non-negotiable.

Most people also apply far less sunscreen than the amount used in SPF testing, which means real-world protection is often significantly lower than the label suggests. A full teaspoon for the face and neck is the standard. If in doubt, apply more.

Try: IMAGE Skincare Daily Prevention Ultra Defence Moisturiser SPF 50

Need-to-know

Sunscreen doesn’t last forever; in fact, it degrades over time. Most formulas have a shelf life of two to three years unopened, and around 12 months once opened. This means an expired sunscreen may not protect your skin at the level it claims, so be sure to remember when you opened your sunscreen.

Also, when you apply your SPF, make sure it’s as the last step in your skincare routine and before make-up—it needs to sit on top of everything else to form an uninterrupted layer of protection. Overcast days don’t mean you can skip using sunscreen; up to 80 per cent of UV rays pass through cloud cover, and they penetrate straight through glass windows too.